Saturday, May 16, 2015

You've Been Hong Kong'd!


So here I am in the Hangzhou airport waiting for my flight to Hong Kong. The drive here was a whole hour—this city is huge. I didn’t get any breakfast because I thought I would just get something at the airport after I checked in and went through security, but there weren’t any breakfast places. Just typing the word breakfast is making my mouth water. I was thirsty so I went to the only place that was open: China Duty Free. This is apparently code for “much more expensive than if you bought it anywhere else.” My small bottle of water was ¥20, and of course all I have are ones and hundreds.

Checking in and security was extremely fast—faster than I’ve ever seen. When I got to immigration they told me I forgot the departure card. I always forget the stupid freaking departure card. If you don’t know what this is, it’s a card with your name and your passport number and your flight number. All things the immigration officer can see on the other two things you give them: your ticket and your passport. I think it’s stupid and ridiculous. Mostly because I always forget about it. So I went and filled out the pointless card and got back in the line that had gotten much longer. Thankfully I heard the immigration officer call out, “American!” Which was obviously me. She motioned for me to come over so I got to skip the line and go through. Then right as I started approaching the security check, they opened a new line! Of course half of the first line sprinted into the other line like a bunch of crazy people. But I got in line fourth, so I was happy. The security was so easy! I think the US is paranoid about airport security, but they have the right to be.

Well I think we’ve been flying for thirty minutes. The weird thing about this plane is that there is no one sitting in the exit rows. So I asked if I could move there, but they told me it costs extra to sit there. Which explains why no one bought the tickets for those seats. It’s kind of sad when you think about it that the airline wouldn’t encourage safety by making the exit rows a normal price. What if there is an emergency? Who will be brave enough to open the exit doors? I’ve never been in a plane accident, but I’m very confident in the schematics of a plane to not have any type of flying problems. I just hope if something does happen, someone will step up and open those doors!

While I was waiting to board and visited that much-more-expensive-than-if-you-bought-it-somewhere-else. Side story—one time I was flying something, I can’t remember which airline it was—but their snack were these delicious little brown square cookies. The taste was very different and extraordinary. Anyway, I found those cookies in the store, so I bought some and I’m enjoying them on the plane right now. The only drawback is they’re individually packed so I have tons of wrappers.

One thing I do love about Asian airlines (not Asia Airlines, just general airlines in Asia) is that they serve a whole meal on every flight no matter how long it is. It’s always something foreign like Vietnamese or Indonesian food, or something like that. But hey, it’s free food! And really, who can say no to that? Speaking of which, the woman sitting next to me obviously didn’t get enough sleep because her head is bobbing all over the place. Also another thing I like about Asian airlines is that Asians are generally small, so sitting next to them is extremely easy.

For the very first time in my entire life, I went through immigration without any problems! It felt like a miracle. So I expected this grand airport to have more food choices. Of course there was McDonald’s and Starbucks, but I’ve been avoiding McDonald’s after I found out they downsized the menu. I’m not prepared to not see my favorite menu items. But I found a nice little restaurant called Ajisen Ramen and I’m sitting at the same table as an older Chinese couple because apparently that’s how they do it at this restaurant! Oh well. It’s strange here because the currency is the HK$, and its exchange rate is very close to the Yuan. So looking at a menu that says $75 for a sandwich freaked me out a little until I remembered it’s about the same in Hangzhou.

Well, I finally waited long enough to go through immigration and security. Once again, it was a breeze. But that’s just the end of that story. It began with me arriving in Hong Kong and immediately looking for which gate my next flight would be departing. Flight information in hand, I eagerly looked at the departures board for my flight. Problem: it wasn’t there. So I hopefully thought maybe it would be on a different departure board, but alas, it was not. Then I thought maybe it wouldn’t show up until later in the afternoon. So I found a nice spot to relax and enjoy Facebook for a couple hours. A woman sitting across from me even offered me a teaching job. I told her I already had a job and she gave me her card. Which was a postcard with her phone number on it. It was an odd experience to say the least. I went back up to the board to look, and it still wasn’t there! So I caved and asked an airport person where to check in and fortunately, she was a check in employee of the very airline I was taking! She took me to an empty desk and checked me in right away. As I walked to security, I noticed a very, very long line and it was for, yep, the same airline as me. I had just skipped waiting in line for probably 45 minutes.

At first, I thought the airport was rather simple, with only a few restaurants and shops. But after I went through security, it was like entering a massive mall! Stores and restaurants were everywhere! Bvlgari! Gucci! Rolex! Prada! Dior! Even expensive name brands I hadn’t even heard of! And this is just what I can see from where I’m sitting. Needless to say, this is the most packed and well-dressed with stores airport I have ever been in.

After being in awe for a couple minutes, I found a Starbucks and waited in line for a good 20 minutes to get some coffee before the next flight. While I was in line a huge clap of thunder echoed throughout the airport. Everyone was silent. It was very weird. Everyone was mostly ok. The other strange thing about this airport is I see Chinese looking people everywhere, but some of them most definitely speak American. That would be English with American slang. I even waited in the immigration line behind a ginger! I hadn’t seen one of those in a while.

So now I wait for the airport to announce which gate where my plane will arrive. This makes me nervous because there are over 500 gates in this airport and I have no idea even of which general area it will be. But it is delayed 50 minutes so that’s a bummer. This trip was much less exciting than my others, and I am totally fine with that because there were no complications! That’s a first for my trips in Asia. Part of me hopes this is just a one-time thing, because it’s been so easy! But part of me wishes it would have been more complicated, because that’s always more exciting and educational. So instead of saying, “better luck next time,” I say, worse luck next time!

Friday, May 15, 2015

China: First Ten Days


Ah page one. One thing I love about my journal or my computer or most notepads is that I can always count on there being an empty page. It is my canvas. Although I can’t fit 1000 words on one page, I can certainly paint a picture with 1000 words. Writers are always depicted as staring at their blank page in horror, stuck with writers block and no ideas. But whenever I see a blank page, I see an opportunity to make something great, something that no one has ever created before, something new. And to me, new has always meant exciting. But exciting does not always mean good.


I didn't take this beautiful picture, but I did stand in this
 exact spot and take a similar picture in the rain.
I have been in China for 10 days now, although it seems like, no, it has seemed like 10 days. I arrived early on a Friday morning in yet another brand new city. I had my two bags and 50 yuan, which is about $8. I had very vague directions on how to get to the Shanghai Zoo via subway. But most importantly, I had my adventurous spirit—something that has shaped my way of thinking in more than one way during this oversees adventure to inspiring Asia.

After I exchanged my Cambodian Riel for the yuans, I headed in the direction of nowhere, looking for this subway. I found it, bought my little ticket, and tried to find something resembling a map that could tell me where this zoo was. Now, China is different from other southeastern Asian countries in that no one here really needs to speak English, so not many of them do. Like in the United States, we don’t rely on our knowledge of other languages to help us speak to tourists because tourists rely on their knowledge of English to speak to us. (It’s ok, I would have had to reread that sentence too.) So it kind of is in China, well at least in Shanghai, that people don’t speak English because there isn’t a raging tourist business. This is not helpful for the English speaking foreigner, but I’ve braved other foreign cities and I’ve done just fine. The details are very boring, but I made it to the zoo without having to go backwards at all! I did have to get off a couple times to make sure I was going the right way, but I was proud that I had made it essentially across the entire city of Shanghai on my own. I wish I could have seen it, but I was underground the whole time.

So, mission accomplished, I made it to the zoo! Not really though, because I had to contact my contact in Shanghai, and to do that I needed that thing that makes our worlds go ‘round, wifi! That is not an easy thing to find for free in Shanghai, so I literally wondered around the zoo area with my bags in one hand and my phone in the other, desperately looking for wifi so I could message this woman, named Jane. I enjoyed walking though, first, because the weather was so nice! It was cloudy but not raining, and there was a light breeze so I was almost a bit chilly. Another thing I immediately noticed was how clean the streets were! Of course, compared to the US, the streets are dirty, but compared to Thailand and Cambodia, it spotless. I really enjoyed that unnecessarily long walk.

Suddenly, I found something very settling and familiar: FamilyMart. It just felt good to see one of those again after leaving Thailand. And believe it or not, that’s where I found my wifi. So I called Jane on this app she told me to get that apparently everyone in China uses. I tried to explain where I was and she told me to meet her back at the zoo. So bags in hand, I headed for the zoo when oddly enough, I heard my name. Very confused, I turned around and saw a woman standing at the bank I had just passes wearing a black and white polka dot blouse with jeans and a green vest and sunglasses. Even after seeing this person, I was utterly confused because I had never seen her before and she knew who I was. So I started quickly searching my mind to see if I knew of anyone who would be in Shanghai…nothing. Finally she took her sunglasses off and it was, in fact, Jane. Relieved, I gave her a hug and told her how happy I was to see her after having wondered the streets of Shanghai for a good two hours. We had already been introduced on skype, so we dispensed with the pleasantries and got right to business: lunch and the hotel.

We walked about a block and we arrived at the hotel. Jane said it was the only hotel with a license to accept foreign guests and she used the word “special” to describe this establishment’s decorations. We went inside and did the usual passport exchange with the front desk and walked to the room. Her description was indeed accurate. And the words I would use to describe it wouldn’t truly do it any justice, but I will say there was a mirror over the bed and the silhouette of a girl dancing on a pole on the wall. After getting everything settled, we headed out for lunch. Jane asked me what I wanted to eat and I just blurted out McDonalds. I don’t even think I knew what I was saying. Immediately I corrected myself and asked what kinds of restaurants were around. We ended up going to a noodle place and I got some fried noodles with pork. I was so hungry though I think I would have eaten anything. It was either delicious because I was starving, or because it was actually delicious. I think that’s the only time in my adult life I ate so sloppily I got food all over my shirt. Jane had to leave before I finished for a meeting, so partly embarrassed by my shirt, and partly from exhaustion, I trekked back to the hotel for a long post travel nap. (I would just like to point out that ‘nap’ is the 999th word in this post, so I almost painted the picture of day 1 in 1000 words, and it did take longer than one Microsoft Word page.)

I woke from my very peaceful nap in the high class brothel with mirrors over my bed at around 4pm. Rested and happy, I prepared for my evening with Jane. We were going out to dinner and then she was taking me to her favorite bar run by a Californian. We ate at what looked like a really nice restaurant to me, and we ordered a bunch of food and just picked what we liked. I like that style of ordering at a restaurant, but if there’s a lot of people, it becomes crowded and messy. My favorite was the fried pork dumplings dipped in vinegar. I thought it sounded strange too, but it was the perfect complement to the moist, but slightly crunchy dumplings.

SIDEBAR: When I was in Cambodia, I got my Netflix working and I solely watched cooking shows. One thing I picked up from one of them was the challenge to describe food without using words like delicious, yummy, amazing, fantastic, and other words like that. Top chefs from around the world told me through Netflix that those words do not describe the taste of food and should not be used! So I challenge you to describe foods you eat without using those words. It’s a lot harder than you think sometimes!

Anyway, back to the story. We finished dinner and headed to “The 60’s Bar.” I really wanted a dirty vodka martini, but they had no idea what that was so I just got a margarita. And here’s a picture of me taking a sip and looking like it tastes very strange. Photo cred to Jane. And then I went back to the fancy hotel for some more sleep. The next morning Jane and I got breakfast and headed to the train station, which is conveniently located next to the airport, and looks almost exactly like an airport. It was also even more crowded than an airport. So we waited in line and got my ticket and some free water and said our goodbyes. I feel like people are always leaving me places with little direction. But it’s ok because it’s always an adventure.

So I waited for my train with all my luggage, a little confused as to why I hadn’t checked it anywhere, but I found out later that’s not necessary because the train is lightning fast! I think the fastest we were going was 150mph. It showed the speed on a ticker at the front of the car, but it was in kph so I had to convert it. What would have taken a two hour drive took us 30 minutes to the small town outside of Hangzhou called (I can’t remember the name). When I got off the train and walked out of the station, Jonathan and Joanna were standing there holding a sign with my name on it. Jonathan ran up and hugged me and I knew immediately that this was going to work out.

We went back to the car and drove to Joanna’s brother-in-law’s house in a smallish town 30 minutes outside the city. The house looked regular, but the inside was spectacular! Huge glass chandeliers hanging from the tiered ceilings, exquisite marble floors, and…a piano! I was so happy I could have cried. I had told Joanna before that I played piano, but that I hadn’t even seen one in 7 months. I sat down on the velvet bench and my fingers just went. All the songs I had ever learned, and some that I even forgot, came back to me and it was like I had never stopped playing. That may have been that happiest I’d been in a long, long time. I don’t even remember anything else that happened that day.

That’s a lie because I actually do remember dinner. I was told earlier that day that we’d be eating outside, and I thought, great! It’s such a nice day outside; that will be nice! But they meant we would be eating OUT. We went to a very fancy restaurant that was like an old hotel that had been converted into a restaurant. You booked a room that had a big table and then in the “lobby” we looked at samples of all the dishes and marked which ones we wanted. In China, it’s traditional to order a bunch of food and share it all. That way I got to try a little bit of everything! Some things were very good and others were not. I’ve gotten pretty used to sitting with a bunch of people that are not conversing in English. I’ve also gotten pretty good at knowing when they’re talking about me. Which means I also had to get good at being ok with the fact that people are talking about me right in front of me, and not in English. It’s uncomfortable at first, but you start to not care after a while. It’s a great lesson in self-esteem!

After dinner, we drove back to the house where I’d be staying. It was magnificent. The epitome of a modern mansion plus the elegance of the traditional chandeliers and marble floors made it feel modern, but homey. I was then introduced to Ayi, the maid. Ayi is Chinese for either maid, aunt, or what you would call a strange old woman. So she’s a maid called maid. All the cool people in China have an Ayi. My family had this Ayi for the last two months. And at that moment we met, I had no opinion of her, but that changed as the weeks went by. I could probably write a whole book on how to deal with your Ayi after all the encounters and situations I had been in with her even in the first ten days. Anyways, I was shown to my room that had a nice big closet and a floor to ceiling window that covered a whole wall! I love those! I settled in a little and went downstairs to talk to Joanna and Jonathan for a bit before we went to bed.

The next week was smooth and easy. Matthew, the youngest, was still at the grandparents’ house and Jonathan and Joanna were spending the week at their apartment in the city. So it was just good quality time in the giant house with Ayi. My opinion of her still changes daily. It’s an emotional roller coaster. But the thing that kept me sane was my open mind. This is by far the most important thing to equip yourself with when visiting another country, whether it’s drab and disgusting or mighty and magnificent, you must have an open mind, because things are always different when you’re not at home.

Thankfully, my new family also had this open mind, and tried to accommodate as much of my own culture and daily life as I transitioned into this new environment. For example, Chinese people do not traditionally have drinks during meals, because there’s almost always soup. But as an American, I gotta have my cold drink during my meals. In my American and family culture, I grew up drinking cold milk with breakfast, water or sweat tea for lunch, and one of either of those for dinner! So the options of hot water or nothing didn’t really appeal to me. But my open mind told me to play along and just drink the hot water. Even though the only reason I would have drunken hot water in America would be nothing. I just thought, “Hey, I’m in a different country, in someone else’s house eating at their table, so the polite thing to do is just go with it!” I mean, if someone visiting from China in the US asked me for some chop sticks when we sat down for dinner, I would be a little confused. Especially if we were eating something as American as grilled chicken and mashed potatoes! So it’s always important to remember that you’re in a FIREIGN place, and they do FOREIGN things. Plus, who knows? You might enjoy potatoes cut in the shape of fries, but boiled instead of fried, and sloppily eating them with chop sticks!

The great thing about time is that you get very used to all the things you’ve been doing differently. Sometimes so much so, that it takes you a second to remember how you used to do things. But that’s all part of settling in, and it’s nice to normalize some of the non-normal habits I’ve picked up since I got here. So household habits, check! Language is still on the to-do list. I have two Chinese classes per week. On Tuesday I have grammar and structure, and Friday I have speaking. I’ve always been told that English is the hardest language to learn—then I started learning Chinese. English may have more rules and exceptions, but Chinese is much more complicated. The hardest thing for me is remembering how to position my tongue in my mouth to make the correct pronunciation, because many of the sounds are very similar. I’ve taken English, French, and Spanish, but Chinese is, by far, the most difficult. But I have a whole year to learn, so who knows how proficient I’ll be at it after a few months. Again, I have to remember to have an open mind.

So far, these ten days have been great, and I’ve enjoyed myself immensely. I’ve already learned more than I thought I would have in ten days. And I already feel like I’m part of this new family and I’m excited to see where this adventure takes all of us! And although it pains me to do so, this paragraph will only have four sentences. Now five. Now it’s a real paragraph! Sorry about that, but it’s against English writing to have a paragraph with less than five sentences.